[转帖]圣彼得堡游记

<p>在一个博客里看见圣彼得堡游记，写得很好，贴出来大家分享</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><font size="3"><font face="Times New Roman"><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">圣彼得堡</span> (1)- <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">沼泽地上的城市</span></font></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 12pt;"><font size="3"><font face="Times New Roman"><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">圣彼得堡</span> - <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">彼得格勒</span> - <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">列宁格勒</span> - <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">圣彼得堡</span>.<br/><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">三百年</span>, <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">一个轮回</span>.</font></font></p><p><font size="3"><font face="Times New Roman"><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">圣彼得堡</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">自从开始建立那时起</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">就注定了是座不平凡的城市</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">这根本就不是一座按人民自由意志聚集而发展起来的城市</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">这是一座建立在涅瓦河三角洲的一大片沼泽地上的城市</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">谁会自愿地选择在沼泽地上安家落户呢</span> ?</font></font></p><p></p><p><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">晨曦中的涅瓦河三角洲</font></span></p><p><font size="3"><font face="Times New Roman"><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">这座城市的缔造者</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">是俄国的沙皇彼得大帝</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">在彼得继任沙皇之前</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">俄罗斯帝国的首都一直都是莫斯科</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">从地理上看</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">俄国的河流大都是南北走向</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">这就决定了贸易和人口聚集的分布</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">俄罗斯的文化和宗教也深受南方的拜占廷帝国的影响</span> . </font></font></p><br/><p><font size="3"><font face="Times New Roman"><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">彼</span><span lang="ZH-CN">
                                </span><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">得继位后</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">他对国家的</span> ” <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">亚洲化</span> ” <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">大为不满</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">这同他个人的经历密切相关</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">彼得很年轻时便在欧洲游学</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">他对德国</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">荷兰和英国的文化</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">建筑</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">美学</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">工艺都大为赞赏</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">更让他羡慕的</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">是欧洲国家的海军实力</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">年轻的彼得有着称霸的雄心</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">欧洲的游学经历</span>, <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">让他看见了航海给北欧国家带来的好处</span>. <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">他清楚地认识到</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">没有一支强大的海军</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">他的梦想很难实现</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">而当时的俄国并没有海军</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">于是</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">当他从瑞典人手里夺取了位于</span> BALTIC <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">海边的涅瓦三角洲</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">便开始在河口修建要塞</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">并着手创建海军</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">这就是大名鼎鼎的波罗的海舰队的前身</span> . <br/><br/><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">接着</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">彼得大帝就在此开始建城</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">就是今天的圣彼得堡</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">在建城完成后</span>, <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">彼得大帝迁都至此</span>, <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">从此以后的二百年</span>, <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">圣彼得堡取代莫斯科成为俄罗斯的首都</span>.</font></font></p><br/><p><font size="3"><font face="Times New Roman"><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">这是今日看见的</span>ETER AND PAUL FORTRESS (<span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">彼得保罗要塞</span>)</font></font></p><p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">1703 <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">年是圣彼得堡的奠基年</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">要在沼泽地上建城</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">那谈何容易</span> ? 300 <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">年前的俄国</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">在沙皇的统治下</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">有着大量的农奴</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">彼得大帝驱使了近十万的农奴</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">工匠</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">罪犯</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">战俘等</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">硬是在泥泞的沼泽地上建起了城市的地基</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">而许多的劳力</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">也把自己的骨头留在了地基里</span> . </font></p><p><br/><font size="3"><font face="Times New Roman"><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">为了保证建城顺利</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">彼得大帝曾下令</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">当时俄国其他地方禁止用石头造房子</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">把石头都集中到涅瓦河畔充当地基</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">凡是从外地来这里的船只</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">都要交税</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">这个税不是钱币</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">而是石头</span> !! <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">大船要随船运交</span> 30 <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">块石头</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">小船要交</span> 10 <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">块石头</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">每块的重量不得少于</span> 10 <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">磅</span> !</font></font></p><p><br/><font size="3"><font face="Times New Roman"><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">这</span><span lang="ZH-CN">
                                </span><span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">个彼得</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">智力超群</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">精力充沛</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">身材就异于常人</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">他身高接近</span> 7 <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">英尺</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">据说他大步前行时</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">跟班必须跑步才能跟上他的步伐</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">而他要改变俄国的雄心壮志</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">更是不可阻挡</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">他从意大利</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">法国和德国请来建筑师设计城堡</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">宫殿</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">花园</span>, <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">采用了当时最时髦的巴洛克式的风格</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">所以</span> , <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">圣彼得堡也在后来被称为最不像俄国的俄国城市</span> . <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">这完全符合了彼得大帝给这座城市的定位</span> – WINDOW TO THE WEST. <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">俄国</span>, <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">在彼得大帝的带领之下</span>, <span lang="ZH-CN" style="FONT-FAMILY: SimSun; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">开始了摆脱中世纪形象的改革进程</span>. </font></font></p>

作者是美籍华人，他们的旅行是从美国出发的，和国内旅行社的路线不太一样，不过文章还是很精彩。目前博客里面只有这些文章，如果有更新我再贴上来。

游船穿过细长的运河 , 来到河面开阔的河中心 , 风很大 . 导游告诉我们 , 即使在盛夏 , 涅瓦河水冰冷刺骨 , 没有人在这里游泳 .<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3205/2904549723_e77b476351_b.jpg" style="width: 701px; height: 603px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->远处, 绿色的HERMITAGE MUSEUM静静地伫立在河畔.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3138/2889484932_a6c269949a_o.jpg" style="width: 699px; height: 446px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->
        <br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->比起黄埔江两岸的喧嚣, 涅瓦河显得极为平静, SAMSUNG仿佛是唯一的广告牌.<img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3013/2954000960_230ca943e3_o.jpg" style="width: 725px; height: 494px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3059/2953149323_d2f73bfe47_o.jpg" style="width: 724px; height: 430px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->横跨涅瓦河的三一大桥(Trinity Bridge)<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3258/2823583390_2f7ae27979_o.jpg" style="width: 724px; height: 424px;" alt=""/> <!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->St. Isaac's Cathedra 的金色园顶在阴晴不定的天际中依然闪亮.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3144/2800962492_5191594b7d_o.jpg" style="width: 726px; height: 449px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->在开阔的水面上, 当年炮打冬宫的巡洋舰"阿芙乐尔" (cruiser Aurora)引人瞩目.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3119/2801166518_2e1ca6dffb_o.jpg" style="width: 730px; height: 498px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->1917年十月, 随着阿芙乐尔号的一声炮响, 标志着列宁领导的十月革命的成功. 自此, 俄国内战开始, 首都迁至莫斯科.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3088/2800321155_c5ceb3e724_o.jpg" style="width: 724px; height: 497px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->不再是俄罗斯的政治中心, 圣彼得堡却依然是东西方文化在俄国的交汇点. 涅瓦河水静静流淌, 见证了这座伟大城市的兴衰历史.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3085/2813305322_46985fd95b_o.jpg" style="width: 712px; height: 482px;" alt=""/>

同威尼斯的颓废之美不同 , 涅瓦河畔的建筑有着彼得大帝时代的那种雄伟气概和俄罗斯民族的刚毅秉性 . 虽然外墙黑了 , 铁窗锈了 ,
它们站在那里, 气派仍在 . 穿行在威尼斯的水巷里 , 看见斑驳的建筑 , 会有一种虽然可惜但无可挽回的心情 . 游览涅瓦河 , 你
却会觉得只要条件合适 , 这些老房子随时都会恢复生机 . <br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3220/2953142283_7ddc728937_o.jpg" style="width: 726px; height: 453px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3036/2953996328_16daa68482_o.jpg" style="width: 725px; height: 442px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->虽然很多建筑的颜色鲜艳 , 可我并不觉得它们浪漫. 也许是天色的关系 , 也许是因为知道了这座城市血腥的历史 , 这里的建筑给人凝厚沉重的感觉.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3276/2953997586_8fa8b5d01c_o.jpg" style="width: 726px; height: 494px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3001/2953154273_3bd560681b_o.jpg" style="width: 726px; height: 493px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3292/2954003346_af17d3f383_o.jpg" style="width: 725px; height: 495px;" alt=""/>

圣彼得堡由四十多个小岛组成, 涅瓦河上有许许多多的古风古韵的桥梁.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3027/2953994910_e4c3afa5db_o.jpg" style="width: 724px; height: 483px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3088/2800315849_239f555634_o.jpg" style="width: 725px; height: 492px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3057/2800317679_41b69dcbc1_o.jpg" style="width: 509px; height: 698px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3099/2822745635_d891217ded.jpg?v=1224449241" alt=""/>

<p>第二天 , 我们又坐游船游览了以前在书中看见过的地方 . </p><p>天气不如第一天 , 上船还飘起了雨丝 . 小小的游船分上下两层 , 非常简单 , 游客们都选择在敞开式的上层坐定 . 临开船 , 导游像变戏法一样给每位游客一杯香槟 , 举船皆欢 .<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->品着香槟, 我们放眼望去 , 河畔各种颜色的建筑鳞次栉比 . 这些应该是上个世纪初的老房子了 . 在阴云细雨的笼罩下 , 显得风尘仆仆 . 房子一栋挨着一栋 ,
许多都是年久失修的模样 , 看得出一个时代对它们的怠慢 . 我们没有机会走进这些建筑 , 可我却有些猜的出里面的样子 ,
应该是同改革开放前黄埔江畔的老楼相似 .<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--></p><p><img width="450" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3059/2953987562_fda926465e_o.jpg" style="width: 727px; height: 496px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3239/2954002182_dcf8b97b78_o.jpg" style="width: 725px; height: 494px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3292/2953140703_65d43b7bce_o.jpg" style="width: 720px; height: 437px;" alt=""/>
                <br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--></p><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3138/2953993940_5677f7c5cc_o.jpg" style="width: 724px; height: 441px;" alt=""/>

圣彼得堡(8)- 静静的涅瓦河<br/><p>第一次看见涅瓦河岸(NEVA RIVER) , 是在旅游车上 . 那天天气挺好 , 阳光下的涅瓦河温暖而明亮 . 从车窗望出去 ,
竟然有似曾相识的感觉 . 我知道 , 那是因为 彼得保罗要塞(PER AND PAUL FORTRESS)的缘故 . 从小就看熟的尖顶建筑 ,
它的原型原来在这里 . <br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3237/2800109957_c70549ae6a_o.jpg" style="width: 726px; height: 495px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->每个城市都有一个中心 , 围绕着这个中心 , 城市扩张 , 繁荣 , 壮大 . 毫无疑问 , 圣彼得堡的中心是涅瓦河 , 这是这座城市的血脉 . 无论宫殿也好 , 博物馆也好 , 都好像是为点缀涅瓦河而存在 . <br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3252/2800116477_d50b43739b_o.jpg" style="width: 720px; height: 345px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--></p><img width="450" hspace="0" border="0" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3090/2800112133_64865e5af6_o.jpg" style="width: 726px; height: 496px;" alt=""/><br/>

<!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->这是圣彼得堡出面的ASTORIA HOTEL. 当我们路过这里时, 安娜特地向我们介绍二战其间, 希特勒那次被迫取消的庆典.<img width="450" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3079/2823568010_0028a9d538_o.jpg" style="width: 704px; height: 454px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->  <br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->话说当年希特勒派重兵包围了列宁格勒,
他理所当然地认定能在短期内占领这座城市, 并准备在著名的ASTORIA HOTEL举行庆典晚宴. 希特勒对德军的攻势信心满满, 
事先定好了庆典日期-1942年8月9日, 并早早地将庆典的请帖印出来. 当然, 独裁者的希望是落空了, 而一份当年的请柬,
却被悬挂在ASTORIA HOTEL的大厅墙上.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->与
圣彼得堡当年的辉煌相比, 城市现在的市容差强人意. 苏联解体以后, 俄罗斯的路并不顺畅,
所以除了那些宫殿,博物馆, 圣彼得堡并没有引人瞩目的新建筑. 俄罗斯虽然在这几年靠着出卖能源发展迅速, 有些人发了大财, 可从整体来说,
这个城市的基建比中国的大城市要差很多. 尤其是城市外围的居民区, 老房子都年久失修.   当然,
能看出现在的俄国政府正在日以继夜的整修着圣彼得堡, 很多古典老建筑外面都搭着脚手架, 另外, 为了方便日益增多的游客,
圣彼得堡还在修建供邮轮停泊的港口, 对此, 安娜非常自豪.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img width="450" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3169/2953912362_fa4bb258f2_o.jpg" style="width: 699px; height: 467px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->90年代初期, 圣彼得堡黑帮横行, 治安恶化,  曾被称为是"犯罪之都". 可是, 安娜却是这么说的, "人人都是说圣彼得堡是个不安全的城市, 可是以我去过世界五十多个城市的经验来看, 圣彼得堡的治安并不比那个大城市更差,  不比纽约差."  很难说安娜的话不对. <br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->在带领我们参观冬宫博物馆馆时, 安娜充分显示了她的业务熟练. 她知道怎么避开人流, 怎么穿捷径, 三小时后从博物馆出来, 她问我们, 没有她, 我们能否自己顺利看见这么多展品, 所有人都真心实意地说"不能!"安娜听后笑了, 那种得意的笑.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->安娜也许走过五十多个城市, 可她显然没有去过中国. 她并不知道, 她极为喜爱的诗人普希金,在中国也非常出名. 在我曾经居住过的中国城市, 还有一座普希金的铜像. 二十年前, 站在铜像的旁边, 我曾看见了她敬佩的戈尔巴乔夫.

圣彼得堡(7) - 导游安娜<br/>
我们在圣彼得堡的两天跟TOUR, 导游叫安娜. <br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><img vspace="0" hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2377/2801081046_2989305f6d.jpg?v=1220416415" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->ANNA是这么介绍自己的, "你们可以叫我ANASTASIA, ANNA, 或者ANN也行.  就像是现在的俄国, 有选择的自由."   车上团员都发出会心的笑声.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->从
外表看, 安娜就是一个精明强干的女人. 记得以前看过的苏联电影&lt;莫斯科不相信眼泪&gt;, 具体人物,情节早已忘记,
但当我看见安娜的第一眼起, 就自然而然地像起了这部电影的名字. 从两天的接触来看, 安娜干练, 强势, 专业素质高,
的确是不相信眼泪的那种人. <br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->俄罗斯民族是骄傲的民族, 安娜是骄傲的俄罗斯人.
她在圣彼得堡出生长大, 对自己的故乡有着强烈的自豪感. 每当她向我们介绍一个重要景点时, 她的那种自豪和骄傲会自然流露.
<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->这是圣彼得堡的居民区, 建于苏共时代, 其风格同市中心的老式建筑非常不同,  完全没有那种优雅和气概.<br/><img width="450" vspace="0" hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3064/2953058199_160bed56e0_o.jpg" style="width: 703px; height: 467px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->安娜说, 在她眼里, 俄罗斯只有两位伟人, 一位是彼得大帝, 另一位是戈尔巴乔夫.  前者, 缔造了圣彼得堡, 后者, 让圣彼得堡回归了原来的定位. <br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->在
安娜眼里,  德国人是那么的凶残可恶. 每参观一个景点, 她都会指着二战时期时期城市被毁坏的照片,
抓住机会告诉我们德国人对这个城市和人民犯下的罪行.  这也难怪安娜, 她的外祖父母, 都是在二战德军围城其间过世. 当时,
德军包围列宁格勒长达三年, 居民实行粮食配给制度, 每人每天的口粮, 只有二两黑面包. 冬天冰天雪地, 居民没有食物裹腹, 没有碳火取暖,
有65万人死于这次战争, 几乎每家人家都有遇难者. 现在的俄罗斯总理普京, 也是圣彼得堡人, 他家也有亲人在当时遇难. 安娜还告诉我们,
在长达三年的围城其间, 圣彼得堡人饥寒交迫, 可是, 并没有人砍树取暖. 因为, 俄罗斯人相信, 人死之后, 灵魂是寄宿在树上.所以,
砍树是种大逆不道的行为. <br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/>

巨幅基督像<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3242/2809197257_5f441374e5.jpg?v=0" style="width: 373px; height: 560px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->马塞克拼图<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3170/2810047602_9f19208c10.jpg?v=1220057597" style="width: 375px; height: 566px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->走近了仔细看, 仍能看出小块马塞克的形状, 可是站在一定距离之外, 所有人都惊叹整幅拼图的光和影的效果, 尤其是圣母和圣婴的面部肤色, 很难想象这是用石块拼出来的.<br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3134/2800236579_730d34efa4.jpg?v=0" style="width: 369px; height: 554px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment-->这座大教堂 , 是由法国建筑家 AUGUSTE DE MONTFERRAND 主持建造的 , 他一共设计了 24 种方案，沙皇亚历山大一世选定了其中一种. MONTFERRAND为建造<span lang="ZH-CN" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: SimSun;">伊萨基辅大教</span><span lang="ZH-CN" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: SimSun;">堂,花费了毕生的心血, 在他临终前, 他曾向沙皇请求, 将他埋在这里, 可是, 因为他不是东正教徒, 最后也没有被接纳.</span><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3218/2888630821_dee5267d51.jpg?v=1222408130" style="width: 380px; height: 562px;" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><div style="text-align: left;">下面这幅照片, 现在还挂在教堂之内, 显示的是列宁格勒保卫战其间, 红军在<span lang="ZH-CN" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: SimSun;">伊萨基辅大教</span><span lang="ZH-CN" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: SimSun;">堂门口的广场上种卷心菜的情形. </span><br/></div><p><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><img hspace="0" border="0" align="bottom" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3069/2812354953_85750c9708.jpg?v=1220160467" alt=""/><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--><br/><!--Element not supported - Type: 8 Name: #comment--></p><span lang="ZH-CN" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: SimSun;">二战中，教堂受到严重损坏，战</span><span lang="ZH-CN" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: SimSun;">后很多年才修复完毕. 教堂大门外的红色大理石柱子上, 现在还留几处弹痕没有修补, 这是为了让后人不要忘记过去. 在一根柱子旁挂着一块铜牌，上写</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">“</span><span lang="ZH-CN" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: SimSun;">这是在</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">1941</span><span lang="ZH-CN" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: SimSun;">～</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">1944</span><span lang="ZH-CN" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: SimSun;">年，德国法西斯发射的</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">148478</span><span lang="ZH-CN" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: SimSun;">发炮弹中其中一发留下的罪证.</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">”</span>